• Alyssa Chen

Lessons I Get from Spring Summer 2019 Fashion Shows

Updated: May 5

Spring Summer 2019 Fashion Weeks end through the closure at Paris. Among all, Paris Fashion Week to me is the most attractive and dazzling- there are mega-presentations especially out of the power affirmation from two conglomerates Kering and LVMH (Dior vs. Gucci on the opening of Paris Fashion Week; Celine vs. Saint Laurent later in the week). On top, there are quite a few mostly anticipated moments from the debut of designers at their new reign.


I always believe that fashion is not just about clothing. Fashion show should be story teller which expresses the idea and attitude from the designer. Therefore, instead of boring you with fabrics and silhouette, I love to share the lessons I learn from watching the Spring Summer 2019 shows.


♥ Love Well, Whip Well


CELINE


Love could be a burden too. This idea is demonstrated well in Celine from Hedi Slimane. The come back of Hedi Slimane since he quitted Saint Laurent two years ago has been the mostly talked about. Therefore, his debut at Celine Spring Summer 2019 show is also the most anticipated yet disappoints the most. Why? The show presents the same Hedi night club style exactly as Saint Laurent at his time. Some says he’s so obsessed with what he does that he didn’t even bother to care the new happenings in the fashion world during his absence. Others blame him for wiping out the liberty Phoebe Philo gave to women and injecting a “gust of toxic masculinity.” (quoted from Tim Blanks, BOF Editor-at-Large)


In my opinion, the fashion world has short memory, and money speaks for itself. It is a true pity that Hedi Slimane didn’t show a new point of view for Celine as highly expected. However, Slimane has a proved history for the Midas touch. Who knows today’s mourning would not turn into a blissful praise one day?!



♥ Don’t Mess Up with Gender Issue when It is Paramount at the Moment


The definition of being women or men is getting outdated. Look at the Millennial generation- do they care gender at all while growing up? In that sense, androgyny has been a new norm since seasons ago. The merge of Men and Women shows- even though firstly it’s for the economy concern- has also been a normal practice to many brands. in Spring Summer 2019, it seems more designers want to liberate the gender issue by showing both the strength and vulnerability of both men and women.


Givenchy


Cropped hair, skinny athletic bodies. Can you be so sure of their gender?

Louis Vuitton


Louis Vuitton also plays with gender this season. Those males in suits are actually all female models. Ambiguity of gender in the new generation is the idea the designer Nicholas Ghesquière wants to discuss, and the role clothing plays as an empowerment.

Maison Margiera


Transformation is the idea of John Galliano for Maison Margiela. There are some transgender models walking in the show. Without emphasis, the fit, the cutting and the drape are just so reasonable and same powerful for both genders.

Thom Browne: An Odd Lesson of the Season


In the #MeToo era, one has to watch out his humour. Thom Browne show is said to be an odd lesson to the value nowadays. The uncomfortable setting- the face mask (resemble Hannible. One even with melting ice cream cone), stitched lips, agonizing shoes and the bound bodies- causes the accusation of being misogynistic given the fabulous tailoring and blissful colours.


♥ Steadfast to Your Best Quality Even Though It May Not Entertain the Mainstream


When commerce overrides all and drives ready to wear design, it is always grateful to see some designers insisting their belief in the authentic beauty of clothes and craftsmanship.


Balmain


Olivier Rousteing said the French chic looks he created originated from ancient Egypt. I see the beautiful scultping, tailoring and body-conscious cutting in this amazing and artistic collection.


Alexandra McQueen


The collection talks about the important moments of a woman’s life, according to the designer Sarah Burton. The workmanship with attention to details give an haute-couture touch.


Dries Van Noten


The looks are basic and wearable yet with innovative detailing, accessories and couture gesture! No matter how the world changes, I love Dris Van Noten for his keeping the modern and sophisticated style with upbeat patterns and joyful colours.


♥ Clash Creates New Beauty


Lack of creativity? Try the contrast by marrying two opposite elements, and voila there could give birth to a new beauty!


Prada


Miuccia Prada interprets the confrontation of conservatism and liberation


Balenciaga


Demna Gvasalia shows us what happens when the so-called low-tech fashion industry meets the high-tech digital power.


Off White


Virgil Abloh partners with Nike and creates a new look of athleisure, which keeps the chic.


♥ Life is Full of Tests- Watch Out Your Wallets!


Money is the ultimate darling to fashion brands. If training store teams to conduct cross selling is too time-consuming, then let’s brainwash customers from upstream!



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